I took a 1.6 board I have laying around and decided to do a speed-mod. I paid no attention to quality of solder joints, length of wires, or anything else that a more experienced technician might look. I did it as quickly and as shoddy as I could, so I could show results similar to what the average Joe may expect.

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I'm not trying to talk it down. THIS WORKS, and that is what matters and that's what this guide is for. Insert the pinheader. Hold it with one finger against the board and flip it over. Solder 1 pin on the bottom side in place. Make sure your finger is not touching this pin on the other side. Let it cool, and then look to solder the opposite corner (diagonally).

Aladdin XT installation Guide Thank you for purchasing! To begin the installation, you will need to first remove the motherboard from the Xbox. Step 1 – Installing the Pin Header: Now that you have the motherboard removed, we will first start with installing the pin header.

1. The tutorial that started the thread is for a regular Aladdin XT plus 2, an xblasts modded one would be considered different from a stock one just to clear that up for anyone completely new to installing an Aladdin chip. With a standard Aladdin chip you should cut the L-frame as far as I am aware. I am right in saying this?
2. With affordable price and easy installation, it is sure to suit for anyone with minimal experience with Xbox modification. With an unbelievably low price, this mod chip allows the user to play all backups, homebrews and original imports without the need of swapping or patching the games. When the Aladdin XT is activated.

Don't let your finger touch that pin this time, and solder it in place. Now you can stop pressing on the opposite side with your finger, and just solder all of the rest of the pins in place. (A MUCH better way than using your finger, is to add a drop of super glue between the plastic holding the pins, and the board. Don't let it touch the metal or it will cook away in a very eye-irritating vapor.) 2. Now we're going to attach the wires to rebuild the lpc. On the top is the guide you should use. On the bottom is the demo job I did, and yours should look similar or better. You'll notice on the bottom picture, the LFrame/D0 wire is soldered to a pad you don't see anywhere else.

The guide tells you to solder it to the chip, and the chip has a pad for it. That's not necessary. Just solder it to the pad I show you. That pad is ground, and grounding LFrame/D0 causes the Xbox to boot from LPC instead of the onboard rom. Doing this allows you to take the chip off at will for hotswapping/flashing other chips. (The dark colorations in the bottom pic are not burns.

I use rosin-core solder. I usually clean it off to look nicer, but in this case I was trying to demonstrate a real-world normal job someone might do.) 3. Now it's time to get the Aladdin ready to go in. It has features built in for xbox live, which no longer exists for the original Xbox. So we need to defeat those features.

Solder the BT pad on the Aladdin to the pad shown. This will enable the chip as soon as power is pressed. Now you're ready to fit your chip and test it out. It mounts on the pinheader like this. As much as I appreciate a post for 'average joe' with no prior soldering skills, I would like to add a few things: If you are new to soldering and attempt this get yourself a few things: - A cheap multimeter that beeps when the setting is set to continuity (these cost no more then 3$) it is dead easy to use (and will come in handy in a milion little repairs around the house) This function of a multimeter is used to measure if point A and B are connected on a board. (A)-(B) = beep (A)- -(B) = no beep (and a break in your line) You will notice lines on a board running from where you solder to somewhere else. These lines are called traces.

For rookie soldering guys it isn't uncommon to solder too deep in a board and somehow breaking (or ripping) a trace line. So the beep check is good to check if you eyeball your work and think.

Lets check Another thing the beep check is extremely (!) handy for it to see if your solder job didn't accidentally solder onto something else. Especially if it's small. Just hold the two leads on both the points and no beep.

Great, you didn't connect your solder. Then use some braid to remover the solder and go for it again. Secondly I highly highly recommend you get a cheap 15w soldering (pen style) iron with a pointed tip.

Please don't use your dad's old soldering iron with a thick tip (guess how i started back then). It usually will run far too hot (as it's meant for soldering larger objects) making you burn through a board and potentially wreck it. A cheap pen style can be picked up for 5-10$.

If you're thinking of doing a lot more, have a looksee for temperature controller soldering irons. The china models are absolutely low in price, since soldering irons aren't rocket science, so might be worth it depending on how often you'll use. When rebuilding the LPC. You might absolutely want to stick down the wires so that can not move around. Solder points can detach over time. Hot glue is one option, but I've never been a fan of that myself.

If you do glue I highly recommend you don't glue on the solder point, but a bit off from that. Should you ever need to resolder then you don't have to worry about the glue. When I started I used heatresistant foam tape, but these days there is a whole range of heatresistant tape available and even compleet sheets in sizes. I wouldn't recommend generic electric tape because their 'stickyness' wears out very fast when stuck to a mainboard. And lost, but MOST important.

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Keep in mind you're messing with electricity. I've modded thousands of devices and know what I'm doing. And even so, I have told every single customer I ever had to use an extension cord with a on/off switch. And turn it off on the extension switch when you are done playing. If you've ever seen a housefire.

The 2 seconds to flip it off/on is worth it happy modding! As much as I appreciate a post for 'average joe' with no prior soldering skills, I would like to add a few things: If you are new to soldering and attempt this get yourself a few things: - A cheap multimeter that beeps when the setting is set to continuity (these cost no more then 3$) it is dead easy to use (and will come in handy in a milion little repairs around the house) This function of a multimeter is used to measure if point A and B are connected on a board. (A)-(B) = beep (A)- -(B) = no beep (and a break in your line) You will notice lines on a board running from where you solder to somewhere else.

These lines are called traces. For rookie soldering guys it isn't uncommon to solder too deep in a board and somehow breaking (or ripping) a trace line. So the beep check is good to check if you eyeball your work and think. Lets check Another thing the beep check is extremely (!) handy for it to see if your solder job didn't accidentally solder onto something else.

Especially if it's small. Just hold the two leads on both the points and no beep.

Great, you didn't connect your solder. Then use some braid to remover the solder and go for it again. Secondly I highly highly recommend you get a cheap 15w soldering (pen style) iron with a pointed tip.

Please don't use your dad's old soldering iron with a thick tip (guess how i started back then). It usually will run far too hot (as it's meant for soldering larger objects) making you burn through a board and potentially wreck it. A cheap pen style can be picked up for 5-10$.

If you're thinking of doing a lot more, have a looksee for temperature controller soldering irons. The china models are absolutely low in price, since soldering irons aren't rocket science, so might be worth it depending on how often you'll use.

When rebuilding the LPC. You might absolutely want to stick down the wires so that can not move around. Solder points can detach over time. Hot glue is one option, but I've never been a fan of that myself. If you do glue I highly recommend you don't glue on the solder point, but a bit off from that.

Should you ever need to resolder then you don't have to worry about the glue. When I started I used heatresistant foam tape, but these days there is a whole range of heatresistant tape available and even compleet sheets in sizes. I wouldn't recommend generic electric tape because their 'stickyness' wears out very fast when stuck to a mainboard.

And lost, but MOST important. Keep in mind you're messing with electricity. I've modded thousands of devices and know what I'm doing.

And even so, I have told every single customer I ever had to use an extension cord with a on/off switch. And turn it off on the extension switch when you are done playing.

If you've ever seen a housefire. The 2 seconds to flip it off/on is worth it happy modding! Tim Thank you Tim. Oh few more tips - try NOT to cross your wires on a lpc rebuild.

I've seen it cause glitches - when bending wires, it's Always better to use a slight curve instead of a 90degree hook (just sometimes a cable breaks inside of its shielding under a hook. Not very common, but still, i tend to use curves) - not 1.6 related but still a good tip.

I love using flux. If you first start using it, it's almost magic guiding your solder to only stick on places it should. However when you want to TSOP flash (connecting two points close to eachother). The flux will often cause the two points not to touch. So for tsopping I highly recommend not to use flux just thought I'd throw in that tip too.

Check this out. Please login or register to see this link. Aladdin Multibank! Please login or register to see this link.

I would NOT tie D0 to ground on a 1.6, get a mod chip that properly releases the D0 point from ground after boot to avoid damage, here I am using L1 on an Xblast chip. D0 is held to ground only until the bios is loaded to memory over LPC from the mod chip, then it is released. Not doing this can damage the MCPX over time due to high load on a data line not designed for the high current. Hi, in a tutorial I found online it says to cut the L-frame trace near mcpx chip. This will also protect the chip I believe. My source again is only this tutorial. No, you don't need to cut LFRAME if you have a mod chip that has a proper LFRAME point that releases ground after the Xbox boots.

Usually labeled L1 or LF on the mod chip. On my xblast's you just tie the D0 point on the motherboard to the L1 point on the modchip. No cutting and no damage to the motherboard or components. The tutorial that started the thread is for a regular Aladdin XT plus 2, an xblasts modded one would be considered different from a stock one just to clear that up for anyone completely new to installing an Aladdin chip.

With a standard Aladdin chip you should cut the L-frame as far as I am aware. I am right in saying this? I don't have an xblast chip myself. Are there anyone selling xblast chips or is everyone programming their own? Never had one. The tutorial that started the thread is for a regular Aladdin XT plus 2, an xblasts modded one would be considered different from a stock one just to clear that up for anyone completely new to installing an Aladdin chip. With a standard Aladdin chip you should cut the L-frame as far as I am aware.

I am right in saying this? I don't have an xblast chip myself. Are there anyone selling xblast chips or is everyone programming their own? Never had one.

I sell them for 20 shipped in the USA, programmed and flashed with 1.6 M8+ and X2 5035. Here is a list of all (rare) MCPX ic I know off: MCP X-mode 2 MCP X2 (DVT3) MCPX X2 (found in DVT4 and Sega Chihiro) MCPX X3 MCPX X3P (not sure, but my latest notes state I found some info on this N64freak picture, repairing a Sega Chihiro (google this if you think 'sega?'

) N64 Freak in this thread on Assemblergames has also did some amazing soldering things:Please login or register to see this link. EDIT from N64freak I now understand the SMC might not need to be swapped, so you can ignore the rest of this post below. From various sources I know that if you would replace a X3 with a X2, you should swap the SMC ic to a matching set aswell (so just ordering X2 from china doesnt work?) I dont know if an MCP X2 is requireing its own SMC against X2. Those are even more rare, All retail have some kind of X3, but revisions where made.

Altho MS did a big fix and forced Nvidia to scap alott of mcpx, Nvidia disliked Microsoft verymuch after that. So MS couldnt that easely make newer Silicon designs after the 1.6 design.

Xbox Mod Chip - New Life In To Your Console! There is still a whole lot of life in that old Xbox console you have sitting around. And with the Xbox Aladdin XT Xbox Mod Chip you're going to be able to put some brand new features and functions to very good use. This Xbox mod chip is compatible with ALL Xbox's to date. Play your import and backup games with this Xbox mod chip. But more than just import and backup games, you can turn your original Xbox into the ultimate media center. With XBMC, you're system will play back any type of video, audio and movie files.

Forget having to use a DVD player, you can rock out with some divX, Xvid and even AVI movies, right from your xbox system. And if you like retro - retro games that is, then you're in for a real treat. The Aladdin xbox modchip will allow you to load and run thousands and thousands of amazing classic games. Everything from the NES, SuperNES, right to the C64, the amiga and much more. Even the MAME arcade emulators runs and works at full speed on your console.

Not only will you play some great Xbox games, but you will also have access to all of the classic gaming you can handle. While the original Xbox had just a small hard drive, once this chip is installed you can put a huge hard drive in your system. Then store and load up all of your games, movies, music, emulators and more, right from the hard drive.

No discs needed! The fact is, even if you don't have an original Xbox, you can usually find them super cheap at used game stores. People simply don't realize the potential of this great console, because they have no idea of the features and functions they can have once they add an xbox mod chip to the mix.

The Aladdin XT is a 4 th Generation Xbox mod chip and is the most price competitive and full featured Xbox mod chip on the market. The Aladdin XT comes loaded with the EVOX M8 BIOS (LBA48-06/IGR) bios, can be shut off for online gaming, booted with write protection to chip and much more.

The Aladdin XT is also compatible with LCD modules like other 4 th generation mod chips for Xbox. The Aladdin XT works on all consoles including the new version 1.6b The Aladdin XT is great for those installers that do a few consoles at a time and are looking for the best priced chip. The Aladdin XT has one more wire then the DuoX 2, but this does not take that much more time.

If your looking for the best priced LCD compatible xbox chip on the market, the Aladdin XT is it. Don't delay though! Stock is extremely limited, and we're doing our best to keep getting these chips just for you, but even the factories are running out of stock on this amazing chip for your original Xbox!

Only available while supplies last! Please note: The Aladdin XT Xbox mod chip does not affect the original functionality of your XBox. Xbox Mod Chip Features:. The Aladdin XT Xbox Mod Chip allows you to play your import and backup copy games!. Supports all import games. Supports all Backup games on either CD-R, CD-RW, DVD-R, DVD-RW, etc. Compatible with 1.0 - 1.6 Consoles.

Can boot Xbox mod chip On or Off. 2 Wire Installation. Plays original imports. Plays Backups of originals.

Plays unsigned code. Very Easy to disable mod for 'Xbox Live'. LCD Display Support.NEW. No-patch hack 1 & 2.

Eject trick hack. This Xbox Mod Chip turns Macrovision Off. DVD Reset. EvoX HDD Patch. Auto detect EvoX Dashboard Package Contents. 1 Aladdin XT Xbox Mod Chip.