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• Trovare Crack E Seriali Ori 2
• Trovare Crack E Seriali Ori 2016

Did you know that you could play sound using an usb to uart/serial converter, by just using an FT232RL usbserial and an external speaker with amplifier? Let’s take a look at the software side first, the basic idea is to send bytes purposedly crafted to create some sort of PWM.

So we have 8 bits each byte sent, which mean 8 levels, kinda crappy if you like hi-fi sound, but that’s not the purpose of this hack obviously. So the easiest way is to send these bytes for each level Level Bits -4 00000000 -3 10000000 -2 11000000 -1 11100000 0 11110000 1 11111000 2 11111100 3 11111110 4 11111111 A simple python script with pyserial can easily do it, by taking bytes from stdin coming from a raw mono s8 pcm file, to the usbserial. WA801ND v3 Hardware overview Some weeks ago i’ve succesfully ported OpenWRT to the TP-Link TL WA801ND v3, that access point features 2×2 MIMO, detachable antennas, 32 MBytes of ram and 4 Mbytes of flash. It is based, like most new tp-link devices on a qualcomm atheros system on chip ( QCA9533-BL3A) which integrates the MIPS core, ethernet switch and wifi hardware.

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Accessing the WA801ND serial port Out of the box even if the serial header is present and has the typical TP-Link pinout, it won’t work, because some resistors are missing from the board, namely R105 and R107. Solder bridge on R105 required to receive data from the serial port Solder bridge on R107 to allow sending to serial port The serial port settings are, as usual 115200 baud and to enter uboot prompt you have to quickly type “tpl” when it says that it is waiting 1 second.

Installing from the web interface OpenWRT trunk builds can be installed using the original tp-link firmware from the web interface. In order to do that download openwrt trunk build for the device, under the directory ar71xx there should be in trunk a file named openwrt-ar71xx-generic-tl-wa801nd-v3-squashfs-factory.bin, download it and rename it to a.bin ( tested working, but maybe anything works ), and use it to upgrade the access point from the web interface. Once you uploaded the file, wait for the device to reboot, when it reboots currently, no leds will be lit.

That’s because by default no led is assigned to anything, maybe i should do some patch to fix that in the future. To configure it connect with ssh to 192.168.1.1 ( DHCP should be enabled by default too ), or if you have built an image with luci, just navigate to.

Gmail.com: 32.43% hotmail.com: 21.63% yahoo.com: 19.67% aol.com: 1.88% yahoo.com.tw: 1.34% live.com: 1.09% naver.com: 0.97% outlook.com: 0.92% hotmail.co.uk: 0.73% msn.com: 0.62% yahoo.com.br: 0.57% ymail.com: 0.57% hotmail.es: 0.47% yahoo.ca: 0.43% yahoo.co.uk: 0.40% yahoo.co.jp: 0.40% comcast.net: 0.39% 163.com: 0.34% hotmail.fr: 0.32% mail.com: 0.30% libero.it: 0.28% hotmail.it: 0.28% rocketmail.com: 0.28% yahoo.es: 0.27% sbcglobal.net: 0.27% icloud.com: 0.25% me.com: 0.24% bol.com.br: 0.22% googlemail.com: 0.21% gmx.de: 0.21% hanmail.net: 0.21%. Since very few information is available on repairing UBNT Nanostation M5 Loco ( probably the same for M2 ), i am going to post here and keep updating that post with the main kinds of failure encountered with their eventual repair To do these repairs since the board contains big ground planes, you absolutely need to preheat it to at least 120 C° before using soldering iron or smd rework station. UBNT Nanostation loco m5 PCB Types of failure PoE shorted, power supply led blinks as a consequence of that This can be caused by shorted D5 diode ( look for the big black square diode on the left of the ethernet port ), replace it with another one or if you are in an hurry and willing to risk, just remove it. Ethernet port goes only at 10 Mbit ( but usually won’t work at all even if it says that ), or no link is detected This is the trickiest damage, i’ve tried replacing ethernet transformer where it was evidently burned ( one winding open ), but even after that i only got from “no link” to “10Mbit”, so either other components shorted or in that case the SoC is damaged and no repair is worth to do.

The nanostation will only go into firmware recovery mode ( 4 leds blinking ) That kind of failure can be caused by remote reset NPN transistor damaged, replace or remove ( if you don’t need remote reset ) Q503, you can find it on the right of the reset switch, beware that this kind of failure can be also caused by broken switch, so check first with a multimeter if the switch is working properly, also check that the one on the PoE injector is not broken. Have you ever wondered how a bubble looks like while popping? If you think it just “disappears”, you are wrong, and provided you have a decent flash and a camera that allows you to use something like 10sec shutter speed, then you can take such photos with just a relay module and an Arduino.

The idea to trigger the flash at the right moment is to form with the end of a wire an “O” shape and then with another wire, when the bubble touches the wire, it will shortly conduct some current that can be used to trigger the flash. But as you can imagine it’s not that easy doing it, the bubble is very thin and it will conduct only for a fraction of second before poppin, its resistance will be around 10 megaohms, so either you need to build a GOOD low noise amplifier or just use the trick i’m going to explain. If you have some experience with electronics you already know that a wire has a certain capacitance caused by surrounding stuff and air as dielectric, otherwise, well, now you do.

To be able to detect the bubble touching both wires at the same time, the trick is charging the “wire capacitor” to +5V, then switch the pin to high impedence input and measure how much it takes to discharge because of leakage current of your arduino. Since that parameter may vary for each board, wire length, wire insulation and other stuff, you have to find the open circuit value experimentally. If you have it, you can use an SCR too instead of the relay, but be sure to add a delay in the arduino sketch to get the correct timing on photo ( a relay typically takes 6-15ms to trigger the flash ). Below is my setup with a flash set to the lowest power ( lowest power means less duration too, so more sharp photos of moving objects ) and triggered by the arduino with a relay For these photos i’ve used SIGMA 70-300mm lens set at f/16 together with a Nikon d40 body with iso set to 400, the procedure to take a photo is like that, start the exposure using an IR remote, blow a bubble and make it pop while triggering the flash, wait for the remaining exposure time to finish, and enjoy the result.

Needless to say, you need to do that outside at night or in some very dark room otherwise. Now it’s time for some results. Earlier i’ve written a post on how to install OpenWrt on that router, now it’s time to start fixing broken stuff, especially the reset button and the usb port, along with default switch/network configuration. After some work i’ve managed to reverse engineer the GPIOs of that router, GPIO0 is used on the wps button on top of the case which is the only button the router has, so we’ll be using it as reset/failsafe button.

Also who has tried installing openwrt on that router may have noticed that the usb port has no power, turns out that GPIO6 is the one which enables the DC-DC converter on the board ( probably they did that to allow resetting the 3G modem without physically removing it from the port ). So i’ve created a new dts file for that router finally, instead of using the WR5123ng image, below there’s the patch to apply on openwrt source tree. The title of that post may look crazy at first, but it’s not, it is entirely possible to convert your cheap 100M 8 port switch or stuff like that to a managed switch.

That’s possible simply because, if you open up one of these and look at the datasheet, you will find out that they use the same switch chips used frequently inside of routers ( which they can be reprogrammed as you like with openwrt ). The switch i’ve used this time is a “digicom 10/100” switch, digicom is an italian rebrand of some other stuff probably, but anyway, let’s get straight to the point, below you can see the PCB of that switch. The switch chip can be programmed by pulling up or down it’s pins but only basic features are programmable that way. The switch chip can be programmed from the EEPROM ( which on that switch board is not present, but there are unpopulated pads for it ), for the switch to take in account the EEPROM, first two bytes must be 0x55AA. The switch chip can be programmed using a synchronous serial interface at pins MDC & MDIO, on the fly. This one is the most useful one to create a managed switch The serial interface is similiar to I2C but much simpler, it does not support multiple devices on the same bus and devices don’t have an address. MDC Clock has to be generated from CPU side ( in that case an arduino ), so you can operate it at whatever speed you want provided you don’t exceed maximum ratings.

Now once you know how to operate communicate with the switch it’s just matter of programming an arduino. To do that, if you want just to test and you are going to power the arduino over usb. You are going to need to modify an USB cable to give arduino 3.3v instead of 5v. You could also use a level shifter for that, but i prefer powering the entire arduino at 3.3v because it’s simpler and cheaper. To power an arduino with 3.3v you can simple take an usb cable and cut red and black wires and insert a regulator between PC side and arduino side. Arduino usb cable modification After doing that modification, just adjust the regulator to give 3.3v and you are ready to go On that switch, since again, we are lucky today, the IC pins of the serial management interface were already routed to an unpopulated header, on which i soldered a 3 pin strip header. The pinout is the following: 1: GND 2: MDIO 3: MDC MDIO must be pulled high using a 2.2k resistor or some similiar value, again, if you are using a level shifter instead of the 3.3 cable mod, be sure to connect pullup resistor to 3.3v and not 5V.

Trovare Crack E Seriali Ori 2016

To protect I/O lines also add two 100 ohm resistors or 200 ohm at most between MDIO,MDC and arduino pins ( 2,3 ) After doing that the HW part is done, if you want to make it permanent, just buy an arduino pro mini ( NOT NANO ), and an usb-serial, the two should be around $2 total, max 3$. You can also easily find on the board the 3.3v power rail and power the pro-mini from there, DO NOT power the arduino pro mini from usb or use an arduino nano or you will fry everything.

When connecting usb-serial adapter to it you will only connect GND, RX, TX wires, also DTS if you want to be able to program it from usb. Now let’s take a look of a basic software to have a managed switch which can save configuration on arduino eeprom and restore it at boot. outBit and inBit generate a clock cycle on MDC while reading or writing an output value to/from MDIO readReg reads an entire register by submitting read command, phy address and reg address writeReg writes an entire register by submitting a write command together with phy address, reg address and the 16 bit value to write. The switch itself works in a fairly simple way, you can assign which ports belongs to a VLAN ( that is independent from whether the packets will be tagged or not) and then you can configure how to treat untagged packet and what to do when a packet from a VID port group goes out of a port. When you buy an 898D soldering station there’s a very high chance that it is completely uncalibrated, leading to burnt/damaged parts and other kinds of problems since most of the times it is calibrated to give much higher temperature. For that procedure you are going to need:. A cross-head screwdriver to open the 898D.

A flat-head screwdriver at most 2 mm wide to rotate the potentiometers. A thermocouple thermometer. An IR thermometer First of all, set both temperatures at 230 C° and disconnect the power cord because part of the board is directly connected to mains. First start with hot air gun, after you made sure that no metal is touching the board and you are not touching the board, plug the power again, and heat a piece of paper with the hot air gun. Place on one side of the paper the hot air gun, on the other side an IR thermometer.

If you read 220-235 C° it’s ok, if you read temperatures like 260 or 280 C° or 200 C° you definetely need to adjust it. To do that take a small flathead screwdriver and with the soldering station disconnected from mains if the air is hotter than it should be, rotate like 1-2 turns the potentiometer counter-clockwise, otherwise rotate it of the same amount clockwise, and plug again the power and check if the temperature is in an acceptable range, if not repeat the above step with smaller adjustements. If temperature is higher than it should be, rotate like 1/4 of turn the soldering iron potentiometer clockwise ( contrary to the hot air gun one ), you should do that with the power connected so BE VERY CAREFUL to not touch any part on the board except the potentiometer with the screwdriver when doing that. If the temperature is lower than it rotate it 1/4 of turn counter-clockwise. If temperature was higher than needed, blow some air at the thermocouple+soldering iron tip to lower the temperature and wait for it to rise. After like 2 minutes, check if temperature still needs adjustement, if yes repeat from step1 with smaller rotations.

I’m using a pid controller as a thermometer because it’s the only thermocouple based thermometer that i have at the moment.