1. Jan 22, 2017  Con yDgpatch potete facilmente patchare il navcore di qualsiasi Tom Tom (a parte gli ultimissimi modelli che vengono visti dal pc come dispositivi di rete, r.
2. How to update the software on your device using MyDrive Connect. Connect your navigation device to your computer. Switch on your device. If MyDrive Connect doesn't open automatically, click the MyDrive Connect icon (or ) in the Windows notification area or Apple menu bar and then click MyDrive Connect.

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Hi, I've been looking for a DIY guide or some sort of instructions for taking apart my TomTom Go 1000. I haven't found any yet and wanted to ask if any one in this community has. It developed a problem, not wanting to connect to the satellites, or if it did it would drop out instantly.

I followed the tech's instructions and held the power button down for 30 seconds. There was an audible pop, and the GPS started working again. I'm a bit sceptical, as a few days after I did that, the battery has died. The unit is still covered under warranty. But the battery isn't. I've already sourced a battery for $20. Is this any help, although if you break the device its down to what you have done to it, unless you are happy working with small screws and electronics leave the taking to bits to someone else.

Secondly you say you have a new battery is it three wire or five? Start by peeling away the label on the base of the device to reveal two Torx head screws: The two halves of the case are simply clipped together so its either using strong thumb nails to lever them apart or use a blunt kitchen knife to lever force in to the gap: The two halves do come apart.

Access to internal memory card? Mike - Thanks for posting this pictorial. I've found that posts like these tend to become valued much like folklore within the DIY community, with people endlessly referring back to them, and referring others there as well. Most valuable - and the community in general owes a big 'thank you' to the intrepid soul who is willing to be first to pop open their device sans instructions. I've made good use of many such pictorials when cracking open the innards of various cellphones, Blackberrys and my old Garmin 755t. I'm assuming this is essentially the same that I'd find with a 2535 M Live? I probably.won't.

succumb to the temptation to open mine while the warranty is still in force.but you never know. Curiosity might get the better of me. On a slight tangent: in your very top photo, it appears that there's a small card of some sort inserted into the left side of the underside of the device, and that there are a couple of indentations that would allow one to depress the card slightly into the device. I'm guessing that this would cause some springs to then eject the card. I haven't studied the picture closely enough to really gauge the size of the card - but I'm wondering if this is a micro-SD memory card.? If so.I wonder 1) what size the card is, 2) if the device can boot and operate properly if you inserted a larger, blank formatted card, and 3) if you could then download your content, maps, etc.

Onto the new card? All speculation at this point (on my part at least), but it certainly seems to raise interesting possibilities.from increasing map capacity of the device to allowing the loaded memory card to be popped into a card reader so you could back up all files locally using a file manager. None of this would, of course, be officially blessed, and it would all most certainly, void any warranty coverage. Whoever follows this path would certainly be on his/her own (except for community support of course).

But the whole thing certainly grabs my attention. Yes - certain models do have a slot for a uSD card. Some have the slot without the requisite firmware to communicate with the card as yet.

Where used, the card will be for additional content (e.g., maps). It's already impossible to retain both full N.A. And full Europe maps in internal memory of a 4GB unit, and an 8GB card would handle this for those users who don't want to swap maps on/off these units. TomTom has not kept to their schedule for enabling the functionality of the slot, but stay tuned.

Click to expand.Well you learn something new every day! (To be honest, I'd forgotten the 1535 was part of a VIA series, I was thinking it was one of the US-only Go models. I wish people would use the FULL model names on forums!) I still cannot for the life of me understand the reasoning behind all these different models in different regions, surely it would be more cost effective to produce ONE set of ranges for the whole world? Any chance of a picture of this magical flap? I scoured the TT manuals and website, but failed to come up with any view of the underside of a VIA1535. Here are the bottoms of my current uSD-equipped units. As you can see, no hidden flaps there, all the uSD card slots are easy to get to.

In addition to the pictures and text above about how to get the 1005 apart, it's worth knowing that if you carefully prise the aluminium cover off the back of the unit (to be honest, mine just came off on its own as I was trying to prise the halves apart), there are three little slots that you can insert a tiny bladed screwdriver into to help release the two halves of the case. Might save a bit of anxious prising open - I didn't use the slots as I didn't realise what they were until I'd got the thing open and could see fresh air through them, they looked different from the outside and had a bit of glue from the aluminium trim obscuring them. The aluminium trim went back on OK (after I'd finished replacing the battery) with some flexible, clear-setting craft glue.

Also, it's worth knowing where the internal 'clips' between the halves of the case are. So here goes! All the 'lugs' that stick out are on the screen side and all the 'catches' are on the back side of the unit.

That knowledge makes it easier to prise effectively. Looking from the front (as if you're using the unit in your car), the three slots I mentioned above are on the right hand side, under the aluminium trim on the back. They are equally spaced with the outer ones about 12-15mm in from the top/bottom and the middle one halfway between them. The bottom of the unit, in additiion to the two torx screws just has two lugs/catches, one near each end about 8-12mm in from the corner.

The top of the unit has four lugs/catches. One just inboard from the top right corner (about 10mm in) and one just inboard of the on/off switch (which stops it being right in the corner 10mm in from the corner like the top right hand one otherwise they would all be equidistant) and two inner ones that are equally spaced from the outer two if you imagine that the one inboard of the switch wasn't displaced inwards about 10mm by the switch. Imagine this is the top of the unit viewed from the front: SWITCH.LUG.LUG.LUG.LUG.! (The exclamation mark represents the far r/h edge of the unit when viewed from the front as if you were using it - hope that makes sense!) Finally, the left hand side has three lugs/catches spaced the same as the ones with the push through slots on the right. Except they don't have push through slots and you just have to prise them apart like all the others. The top one is immediately below the switch and the bottom one the same distance in with the middle one equidistant between them (i.e right in the middle of that side). I think that coveres it.

Good luck to all and let's hope that TomTom start using a better battery supplier. If they were at all environmentally conscious, they'd make the battery easily user-replaceable. Wouldn't be difficult - all mobile phone manufacturers manage it (with the notable exception of Apple, of course). Thanks again to all the mods who contributed (and to all the other posters).

Having completed this repair using the rear camera part from Ifixit I have to comment that the camera is noticeably lower quality. Its not huge - You don't notice it looking at the photos scaled down to fit but viewing one for one there is significant detail lost.

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My staff member has an Iphone 5 bough at exactly the same time as mine so I was able to take a photo side by side on his and mine after my repair and when you view 1 for 1 pixel in product boxes on mine the text was just a colored blur where on his although you couldn't read the text it was more obviously text. Overall though its still better than having a camera that wouldn't focus at all and being that Apple seem to refuse to supply genuine spare parts (Which there has to be a low against??? - Imagine if a car manufacturer did that) its still good buying one from someone who gives good support. At the end of the day its a phone camera not an SLR and its still better than the older Iphone 4 camera.

To avoid misplacing screws or other elements, printout the instructions, apply transparent tape onto the print wherever you have colored circles marking different screws. Then, as you start removing screws, tape each one on top of its image on the instructions. At the end, to reinstall everything, proceed from the end of the instructions, removing each taped screw from its image, to return it to its original position. I have done this with many iFixit repair instructions, never losing or misplacing any screw! No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it.

Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off.

I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.

My battery needed replacement because the battery had swollen and was warping the glass. Looking at it from the side it looks like gasket that was partly sticking to glass and partly to the case. This is actually part of the glass frame and you need to make sure to separate it from the case not the glass. I did it wrong and ended up removing the glass but there was a metal case covering the inside. I eventually got the rest of the top off but now I'll have replace it all because I can't find a good way to glue the glass to plastic. My iPhone 5 only had a weak battery.

Now it has a cracked glass panel. Suction cup is strong - so strong the glass breaks before the suction cup lets go. Apparently some of the tolerances in Apple's design occasionally add up to make a front panel assembly that refuses to let go. Phone not worth repairing at this point as it only cost $190 refurbished to begin with. A note of warning - you might want to have this done by an experienced tech - go ahead and spend the $100 or so to have someone experience replace the battery and keep the rest of your phone intact. BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL, HERE!! -The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me.

I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the 'iSclack'. In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot.

Overall, it was a good experience. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords.

Mine did not rip, thankfully. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back.

When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around. I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back. When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured.

I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem. Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me! When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen (you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight) if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame, at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner. I hope it helps! When prying, make sure you do it from the TOP or far TOP RIGHT corner using ONLY a spudger, and NOT like it is shown here on the picture.

There is a component next to the battery connector that is easily torn off the board if you're not careful. It's a common mistake made by somebody who have never done the repair before. This will make it so the phone looks like it's charging but only ever discharges.

The component is the filter for the gas gauge line which is directly to the right of the battery connector and is extremely hard to see. They look like a tiny-tiny silver cylinders and you would need a microscope to actually be able to distinguish them. Hope this helps. I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says 'for authorized use only' or something like that.

It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps. So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver.

This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience. The non-magnetized screw was very difficult to install. This is how I ultimately succeeded: Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver.

They will hold the cable bracket in place. Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw (the shaft) has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver. When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together. All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed.

I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying. I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine.

I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again. I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone. My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly. I found that it wasn't at all necessary to remove the front glass.

I did need to use a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, but I simply laid the phone down on the face glass and blew the hot dryer on the back for a couple of minutes at almost point blank range. Then I simply held the phone open with one hand, making sure the front glass never went back more than about 80 degrees (no need to stretch it all the way to 90 degrees), and used my other hand to work the spudger around the battery, making sure not to touch any delicate electronics in the area. The top right corner gave away first and then I worked it down from there and the battery came out pretty easily. The trick is to use the hair dryer for a few minutes beyond the phone being too hot to hold in your hand! (you might need to use a towel to pick it up when you pry the battery out.). I really wonder about the wisdom, and risk, of removing this upper plate in step 14 - unless I missed it, those three cables are NOT connected to the battery in anyway - and the chances for stuffing up said cables re-assembly are moderate to high! I can see that one would have to be careful taking that bracket and disconnecting those three cables ( I certainly was), but it looks to me like there's a case for just undoing the battery bracket & screws and carefully - very carefully - with great patience and some good spudgers, esp the black ones we use in desktop iMacs, - flat one end; pointy the other - plus the usual blue plastic ones and even a guitar pick - prying the battery out from its hideyhole!

Much less stress regarding the upper bracket and the three cables while only a bit more stress over releasing the battery from its sticky grip! Anywho, I might have to stand corrected - but next time I'll go for this abreviated method.:). This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again.

On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector. It is very important to make sure the cables are fully seated. When I finish assembling the phone I too had a vertical white stripe on the display. I disassembled the phone and reconnected the cables very carefully, and also made sure the shield was properly seated.

When I turned the phone back on I found a very faint white line, but after doing a power cycle it disappeared to my great relief. Also, I would definitely recommend removing the display because it’s so hard to get the battery out you don’t need the extra risk of damaging the display. Add a comment.

My display was not turning on and my home button was not working (I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work). When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins?

Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them. By the way, SUPER grateful the rest of the display works.

I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. I was very surprised by how much heat I needed to apply to loosen the glue. I used a blow dryer and then heated up a rice-filled pillow-thing I use for sore muscles. I put that inside a plastic bag to avoid the moisture and pried while phone sat on that. It was hotter than I would normally make it for muscles! But that did the trick. Still had to pry pretty hard and it finally let go with a bit of a snap.

I just pried with a spudger at the open space along the left side of the battery, about mid-way up. Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will (or you won't) have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it (almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back), the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers (parts yet to be found they flew off with such force) and deforming the battery (which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case). Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery.

I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful. The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it. After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance.

I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat-I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me. The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little. Prying from the volume side will also reduce the chance that you dislodge the GPS connector. Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery.

I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying. I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation.

I put a bowl of water in the microwave with a plate on top. Once the plate was mildly hot, I took it out and placed my iphone on it to heat up the adhesive.

I tried pulling the plastic tab, but nothing would happen. I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab (an inch below the volume buttons).

There are no ribbon cables or circuits there, and there is a cutout large enough to fit the plastic pry tool. Pry gently there against the case (once the phone is warmed up on the plate) and the battery comes out very easily. It really seems like that cutout is there just for that reason. When prying the battery off at the first battery position shown in the picture (the gap between battery socket the battery itself), a small rounded metal spudger (like the one that comes with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit) is recommended if you break your plastic prying tool (like happens to me) during this step. Just make sure that when prying up, you are not touching either the battery socket nor any other logic board component.

I also recommend to use a tool like the iOpener and put it on top of the battery for few minutes to reheat the battery and soften the battery adhesive during this step. Quick tip: Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone. The plastic has a mechanical (but not electrical) purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place.

I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery. Do not remove the plastic. BLACK SCREEN AFTER INSTALL ISSUE: The first time I put the phone back together, I turned it on but had a black screen. I took it back apart and put it back together again, same thing.

I thought that I must had torn something but kept tinkering with it. I discovered that some of the foam adhesive strip that goes on top of one of the wiring harnesses that snaps the screen back to the phone had come off and was actually on the receiving side of the wiring connector bracket (probably not using proper terms here). I used the plastic tool that came with the kit and removed it (I was careful not to touch with my fingers for fear or oil getting on the harness).

Tried again still nothing. Thankfully I did not give up as it turns out that connector on the far right of the screen connection harness is tricky. I thought I had heard it click before, but I really looked at this time and realized I had to turn it slightly inward to get it perfectly straight, and then it clicked. Hope this helps someone.

The recovery mode problem as ive found so far is unfixable apple geeks said its toast as well as att. Ive tryed redsn0w and tinyumbrella to kick it out of recovery mode and it does but restarts right back into it. Itunes fails to update or restore. This is a significant risk to be sure, i had no problems changing the battery no clips broken no unnecessary prying and its well powered brick now.on the plus side im gonna leave it plugged in cause im hoping the added power drain will end the zombie apoc sooner. The '2.7' mm screws are not phillips screws. The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one.

While the instructions talk about a flat-head bit, I suspect there is a special bit for these, a '+' shaped bit, possibly with a recessed center (hard to tell without more magnification than I had.) Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.

This is NOT the right way to remove the speaker, anyone following this guide will do unnecessary damage to the phone. Speaker is one of the 'official' serviceable part of iPhone 5.

Which means you don't have to remove the logic board and the battery. Skip straight to step 27, peel up the home button contact flex, remove the red, blue, yellow and the green screw, peel loose the grounding flex stuck around the headphone jack, then remove the flex and the speaker as one part. NEVER remove the lightning connector flex unless you really need to.

Hello guys, i have recently encountered a problem with my iphone 5. The front panel is lifting away from the body of the phone and i can see the backlight assembly behind it. I figured the problem is from the front panel clips not holding the screen in place thus it is popping up. Please if i have diagnosed it incorrectly and there is another cause for my problem, let me know. For the time being, i am considering purchasing a used rear case on ifixit grade C as i only need the clips holding the screen in place. I want to make sure that the clips indeed come with the rear case when you purchase it, if not can someone please tell me where i can get them? Thanks in advance - Add a comment.

Speak out for your right to repair. Hello Washington State Friends: This year, Washington could be the first state in the nation to pass Right to Repair. It’s not going to be easy. Manufacturers are standing in the way. When your stuff breaks, they want to be the only people allowed to fix it. So far, they’ve managed to stop Fair Repair legislation before your representatives get a chance to vote on it. We’ve got to be louder than their lobbyists.

Tell your state representative to support. Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for your right to repair. Speak out for your right to repair. New York, New Yorkers stand up for what they believe in. And we're asking you to stand up for repair. This year, New York could be the first state in the nation to pass the Fair Repair Act, and We have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronic equipment—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment.

We have a chance to protect local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers. It’s not going to be easy. Manufacturers are standing in the way. When your stuff breaks, they want to be the only people allowed to fix it. So far, they’ve managed to stop Fair Repair legislation before your representatives get a chance to vote on it. We’ve got to be louder than their lobbyists. The Fair Repair Act, known as and, requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information, security updates, and replacement parts.

Tell your state representative to support S618. Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for your right to repair. It's time to speak out for your right to repair. Massachusetts, The people of Massachusetts have always stood up for their right to repair.

In 2012, voters passed a law that ensured residents' right to repair their car wherever they wanted. Now, it's time to do the same for electronics and other equipment.

With the Digital Right to Repair Act, and, we have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronics—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. The Digital Right to Repair Act requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair information businesses with fair access to service information, security updates, and replacement parts. But we need your help. Big manufacturers don't want this bill passed.

And they're working hard to defeat it. If you think you have a right to repair your products, find out who represents you in the Massachusetts legislature. Tell them repair is good for the environment, good for consumers, and good for business. Tell them you support the Digital Right to Repair Act, S.96 and H.143. It's time to speak out for your right to repair. Nebraska, This year, the people of Nebraska have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn’t have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks.

The, is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get back on with your life. But manufacturers don’t like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service.

It’s time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the Nebraska state legislature. Tell them you support the bipartisan. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible.

Stand up for the right to repair in Nebraska. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Dear Minnesotans, Minnesota has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass 'Fair Repair' legislation., guarantees our right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably.

But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it.

And they get to set whatever prices they want. Find out who represents you in Minnesota's legislatures. Tell them that you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a bipartisan. Tell them repair is good for the environment, good for consumers, and good for businesses. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Dear Kansans, Kansas has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass 'Fair Repair' legislation., guarantees our right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably.

But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want. Find out who represents you in Kansas' legislature. Tell them that you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a bipartisan bill.

Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Dear Wyomingites, Wyoming has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass 'Fair Repair' legislation., guarantees our right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably. But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill.

When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want.

Find out who represents you in Wyoming's legislature. Tell them that you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a bipartisan bill. Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Dear Washingtonians, Washington has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass 'Fair Repair' legislation. The Fair Repair Act guarantees our right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones and tractors.

It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably. But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want. Find out who represents you in Washington's legislature.

Tell them that you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a bipartisan bill.

Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Tennessee, This year, the people of Tennessee have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. The Fair Repair Act is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it.

And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the Tennessee General Assembly.

Tell them you support the Fair Repair Act, and. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Tennessee. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Illinois, This year, the people of Illinois have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. The is simple.

It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the Illinois General Assembly.

Tell them you support the. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Illinois. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Iowa, This year, the people of Iowa have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. Iowa's is simple.

It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea.

When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the Iowa legislature. Tell them you support the.

Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Iowa. It's time to speak out for your right to repair North Carolina, This year, the people of North Carolina have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks.

North Carolina's is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the North Carolina legislature. Tell them you support the.

Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in North Carolina. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Missouri, This year, the people of Missouri have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. Missouri's is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the Missouri legislature. Tell them you support the. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible.

Stand up for the right to repair in Missouri. It's time to speak out for your right to repair New Hampshire, This year, the people of New Hampshire have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. New Hampshire's upcoming Right to Repair Act is simple.

It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out.

Find out who represents you in the New Hampshire legislature. Tell them you support the Right to Repair Act. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in New Hampshire. It's time to speak out for your right to repair New Jersey, This year, the people of New Jersey have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks.

New Jersey's upcoming is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it.

And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the New Jersey legislature. Tell them you support the.

Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in New Jersey.